By Raye Sanchez
Filipino craftsmanship is the highlight of the “Historical Exhibition of Philippine Clothing and Textile by Patis Tesoro” at Destileria Limtuaco Museum in Intramuros, Manila, ongoing until May 26.
The Sonny Tinio-curated exhibition is part of the Balik Saya fashion design competition of the Department of Tourism and Intramuros Administration, supported by Manila’s 5th District Representative Cristal Bagatsing. It aims to promote our country’s national costume and fashion design heritage by showcasing the long history of the baro’t saya, starting off in the 18th century Galleon Trade.
“Ito na ang tamang panahon para tangkilikin ang orihinal na atin. In line with the Heritage month, malugod naming ipinapaalala sa inyo na napakaganda ng kultura ng Pilipinas at karapat-dapat talaga itong i-celebrate (This is the right time to appreciate what’s originally ours. In line with the Heritage month, we are pleased to remind you of the beautiful culture of the Philippines, which deserves to be celebrated),” Bagatsing stated in her speech during the exhibition opening.
The exhibit highlights Filipino designer and national costume pioneer Patis Tesoro’s Filipiniana dresses as well as various textiles she has collected over the years. During a preview, Tesoro presented two pieces of restored abaca fabrics that she bought from Aklan which previously was coated with mold and cement due to a flood. The renowned designer also gave a talk about the culture of weaving, embroidery, and baro’t saya making.
In addition to the stunning display of Tesoro’s creations, the exhibit also features handwoven fabrics made of silk, abaca, and piña-seda—a blend of fine linawan piña and silk fibers. Barong tagalog hand-painted with Chinese clouds and stylized flowers and leaves is also part of the display.
There’s also a collection of mantons—a large, square piece of embroidered silk, folded in half like a triangle—which were worn over the shoulders of women.
Designs currently on exhibit include a black silk Manton de Manila, completely embroidered in satin stitch with reddish-tinted roses amidst multicolored smaller flowers and leaves; a Manton de Manila of cream silk densely embroidered with scenery depicting a walled village full of people; and a triangular piña panuelo from the 1850s, with an underlay of fine cotton cutout attached with invisible stitches to form a shadow or sombrado effect.
Finalists for the Balik Saya fashion design competition, which is composed of aspiring fashion designers, had a chance to learn from Tesoro’s talk and the display at the museum. The contestants are tasked to create modernized Maria Clara designs which they will present at the final stage of the competition on May 28 at the National Museum of Natural History.
Five winning designers will bring home cash prizes (up to P100,000 for the first prize), an apprenticeship in Rustan's, an overnight stay at The Bayleaf in Intramuros, and a workshop from SoFA Design Institute.