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Friday, March 29, 2024

Majestic Pulag: Conquering Luzon’s Highest Peak

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“I like the mountains because they make me feel so small… They help me sort out what’s important in life.” 

— Mark Obmascik

The first and last time I ever climbed a mountain was in 1999, when I and my fellow UP Astronomical Society members went up Buntot Palos in Famy, Laguna, for a beautiful night of naked eye observation and camping at the base of the falls.

I still remember the experience, and how it changed me: I formed a “relationship” with trees and the earth, as their spirits seemed to welcome us warmly even if we began our ascent at nightfall. I fell a couple of times, got scratches on my chin and knees, got sunburned like nothing else.

But if I could, would I do it again? Certainly.

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Mt. Pulag is known for the picturesque sea of clouds

The last few years have seen the rise in popularity of Mount Pulag in Baguio among aspiring mountaineers and climbing beginners. It is the highest peak in Luzon and the third highest mountain in the Philippines at 2,922 meters above sea level.

I asked several people who have climbed Pulag – some more than once – about the experience and magic of seeing the sea of clouds, waking up to the sunrise, and marveling at the view that only the peak of Pulag can give, and what mountaineers – beginners or otherwise, should be mindful of.

So, how does it feel to reach its peak and finally behold the enchanting “sea of clouds”? Six people from different walks of life share their Mount Pulag stories. 

360-view from a treeless plateau where you can see a good portion of the Cordilleras

Paul Cuenca
Entrepreneur and Landscape Photographer

The payoff is the commanding view at the summit

I climbed Pulag in 2014 and 2015, because it’s the highest climb in Luzon and it has a special environment, plus the sea of clouds and spectacular view.

The trek itself is not difficult by mountaineering standards. It is unique in that it is the highest mountain in Luzon, yet it is the most accessible to anyone who wants to climb it. The payoff is the commanding view at the summit. It has a 360-view from a treeless plateau where you can see a good portion of the Cordilleras. The “sea of clouds” phenomenon is special as it blankets an entire valley below the  summit. Pulag has a clearly marked out trail that is maintained, plus it is a gradual climb.

The environment itself is special. The many undulating shapes on the ridges, the treeless landscape, the shadows, the clear skies at night where you can see the entire Milky Way galaxy and shooting stars and, of course, the sunrise in cool, crisp, and clear air. For those asking why we people should climb Mt. Pulag – I cannot [think of] any other place in the country that gives you so many different experiences in one place.

Climbers have to be informed of the issues in Pulag before they climb. If they want to preserve these sites, then they have to be responsible with how they approach it. As an example, it is important that they pick the right tour company for the climb. Go for a company that takes only a small group to a climb (not more than 10 pax), practices “leave no trace” (LNT), and has a good reputation among climbers. No mountain was ever designed to handle 500 tourists on any one day.

 

 

A different view from the sea of clouds

Elynor Matencio
Mother and Digital Marketing Manager

Reaching the top is worth the struggle

I climbed Pulag in February 2013. I wanted to climb a mountain while I could still do it. I was at a crossroads in my life, and I knew that being with nature and travelling changes our perception.

I knew I had to be physically fit so I started walking daily. I also prepared the items needed for the climb. I prepared my mind by reading blogs about Pulag. It felt like preparing for a sports tournament. The climb wasn’t difficult since we took the Ambangeg easy trail, but the stamina needed in walking for five hours was challenging. 

For Elynor, climbing Mt. Pulag is such a life changing experience

The view was out of this world. I was super proud to have that kind of natural beauty in the Philippines. The challenge was the cold weather; it was 8 degrees! (But) the sea of clouds was worth all the pain! I couldn’t help but cry when I reached the summit. It was a personal achievement to survive it. I came down a new person.

People should climb Pulag to see and appreciate the beauty of our country. Being a mom or a certain age has nothing to do with climbing. My group had senior citizens and 10 year olds. It takes will and courage to get through it. 

So what can people do to preserve Pulag? Don’t litter. Don’t pick up or keep anything as a souvenir. Respect the locals, and just help maintain the environment by picking trash you may see along the way.

Looking at the sea of clouds gives the climber a feeling of deep calm and serenity

Anna Gamboa
Associate Editor, adobo magazine

Finally reached the top!

My department just got dissolved and some of us had decided to undertake the hike as a bonding activity before going our separate ways. 

Mt. Pulag was exhausting to climb, especially the last 2-km to Peak 1, and the thin air made things difficult for a novice like me. I’m grateful for the guide/sweeper who encouraged me to crawl/walk/get up to the top. Looking back, I realize not many people have had this privilege, and I am so grateful to have had the opportunity to climb the mountain – especially when supportive friends loaned backpacks, tents, and sleeping bags for the trip. 

What struck me most was the serenity, quiet, and amazing biodiversity. One moment I was trekking through a semi-humid forest, and the next I was in the middle of a field of dwarf bamboo. 

If you are Filipino, climbing Pulag reinforces your love for the land and heritage, as well as the efforts involved to keep it for future generations while giving some form of livelihood to the locals. Better (or more lucrative) livelihood programs should also be available to the locals so they don’t have to farm on protected forestland. Climbers/hikers have to be better oriented so they respect the land they step on; and stricter guidelines should be enforced when it comes to the number of people allowed to climb at any given point in time to avoid overcrowding, and to allow resource management (especially during peak season, when rescue/medical teams may be in most demand). 

 

Waiting for sunrise from the mountain peak

Minnehaha Calleja 
Tattoo Artist, Good Hand Tattoo

A well deserved selfie with a view    

I climbed Mt. Pulag in early November 2014 as a birthday gift for myself. Ryan (my husband) and I were curious about the “sea of clouds” and the magical sunrise that it was said to bring to all its climbers. It was the best birthday gift!

I heard that it wasn’t an easy climb, so I challenged myself to do it. (But) the challenge was really within my self; I had to get going. Once the three-hour hike to the summit began, there was no stopping. It was dark so one can really get lost, and it was really cold! You can literally die there due to the temperature and the six-hour hike to and from the peak. But the rewards are priceless!

Climbing with my husband unlocked another experience shared together, which we shall cherish forever. The experience brought us closer.

What struck me most about Pulag was the sea of clouds and the sunrise, which was the best I had ever seen. The sight of the majestic sunrise and sea of clouds that greeted us at the summit soothed our body and soul. It definitely emptied our mind and made us pray to God in thanks for such a beautiful world, a beautiful life! The warmth of the sun will hug and energize your tired body, the sea of clouds will freshen your sight, and the magical surroundings will teach you that God is everywhere, and within.

It’s really beautiful here in the Philippines. We all need to make the effort to preserve its beauty for our children to see. So leave no trash! On your way up, you will attend an orientation about the rules of climbing Mt. Pulag, for your safety and the preservation of the beauty of the mountain. Listen to and follow instructions, bring your own garbage bag, and leave no human trace anywhere on the mountain!  Take nothing but photos; leave nothing but footsteps. Even when nobody’s looking, choose to do the right thing and karma will reward you. 

Kelly Austria
PR Practitioner

On the way to the summit

The first time I climbed Mt. Pulag was in May 2008. I was with the group called Guys4Mountains. I remember it was raining hard so we had to let go of sunrise at the peak. We went to the summit mid-morning but it was still glorious. I returned November the same year with SABIT, another mountaineering group. We didn’t have clearing, though (the summit was covered with clouds), so I made another plan to return. The next climb was in March 2009. That was when I saw the sea of clouds and sunrise. The weather was perfect. My last climb was in January 2011. I wanted to try different months. The sea of clouds was more majestic and it was colder.

Every climbing experience in Pulag was different Pulag is really beautiful. Even without seeing the sunrise the first time I climbed, or without the clearing the second time I climbed, I was still amazed at how beautiful Pulag was.

I know that the sea of clouds gets the most exposure on Instagram or Facebook, but the mossy forest is equally beautiful. The campsite is also beautiful. It is actually hard to leave it, especially early morning. There are also the dwarf bamboos and a lone tree there on the way to the summit – one of my favorite spots.

Sunrise from the campsite

Pulag is (an) easy climb. The jump-off point is already quite high so don’t be intimidated by the thought of it as being the highest in Luzon; necessary preparation is key. People should climb Pulag if they want to be in awe. The feeling of being amazed never ceases, no matter how often I have climbed the mountain before. It is that beautiful. Although I should say that Mt. Pulag is a sacred mountain. It should be accorded respect. Follow LNT (leave no trace) principles. They can research about that. They can also do simple things like use the trail. Don’t divert or create a new one. Leave your campsite the way you found it. Carry everything with you on your way down, especially your trash.

Respect other climbers, especially those who want to fully experience nature. Keep the noise down. Be respectful of the locals and fellow climbers. Mountaineers greet everyone; that’s how you know if one person really is a climber. 

Edward Calugtong 
Web Designer

Edward overlooking the stunning view from Mt. Pulag 

I climbed Pulag the first time four years ago, during Holy Week in 2012. I returned in 2014. We went for the hardest trail, the Akiki-Ambangeg. It was like traversing the mountain.

It was hard, since it was our first time. The Akiki trail is said to be a killer trail. We always wanted to see if we could go for the harder one and test our endurance and stamina, for our passion. 

What struck me most about Pulag is that after all the hard work and perseverance that came with climbing, you will always have the great view that you longed for. The view was stunning and magnificent.

Climbing shows you how beautiful nature is

Being outdoors is a way of moving out of your comfort zone, and trying something you have never done before. It will show you how wonderful nature is, as well as teach you how to take care of it. The leave no trace (LNT) principle should be upheld and taken to the city. As they say, “Leave nothing but footprints. Take nothing but pictures. Kill nothing but time.”

There should be a limit on how many people can climb at a certain day. Pulag can’t accommodate 500 to 1,000 people on a weekend. There should be a season for climbing Pulag. And let the mountain heal during the off-season. Tourism is good but it should be regulated. 

Follow the author on Instagram and Twitter: @kaimagsanoc

 

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